People of The West Loop, Then and Now

Living in a dynamic city like Chicago, in a social media age where information is interpreted instantaneously, there are many stories of the past that are often forgotten or not shared from one generation to the next in this fast-paced and ever-changing world. In my recently-released 245+ page book, “Chicago’s West Loop, Then and Now,” I have the opportunity to share a collection of stories of the people, businesses and buildings of this iconic historic neighborhood.  And, its all based on my 5+ years of research including a 100+ interviews that I conducted for my book. There are so many stories to learn from and reflect upon, so that’s why I am excited to share a few excerpts of my book with you!

Did you know that the West Loop is home to the largest incense maker and the world’s finest harp company in world?  Many people do not know that Mary Todd Lincoln lived on Washington Street after President Lincoln was assassinated.

Remember Richard Speck who committed the horrific crimes in southeast Chicago? Right before he was caught in 1966, he spent a night in a cubicle at a Hotel on Skid Row near Des Plaines and Madison. Carter Harrison, a well-known Chicagoan and five-term mayor of Chicago, once lived on Ashland Street when it was known as Mansion Row. However, there are many less known Chicagoans that also lived on The Near West Side of Chicago (today known as The West Loop), too.

Bet you didn’t know that the first pharmacist in Illinois lived on the West Loop’s and had a street named after him? Philo Carpenter (1805-1886) was the first pharmacist in Illinois and Carpenter Street is named after him.  Philo arrived at Ft. Dearborn in 1832 when there were only 200 people.  He opened the first drugstore there in a log cabin on Lake Street.  Philo and his wife Ann were active in rescuing slaves and establishing routes for the Underground Railroad.  They concealed escaped slaves in a safe house at Morgan and West Randolph and through the back door of their own home on The Near West Side.

And there were other medical professionals who lived in this historic Chicago neighborhood and did a lot to give back to the community.  On a cold wintry night in January of 1871, Dr. George Shipman (1820-1893) and his wife Fannie, established a home for abandoned infants and unwed mothers who couldn’t take care of their children.  The Shipman rented a modest cottage at Monroe and Green Streets.  In the vestibule Dr. Shipman left a wicker basket with a note: “Those having babies of which they wish to dispose, whether of sin or poverty, have but to leave them in the basket they will be cared for.  No questions asked. “They went on to start the Foundlings Home, the first infant-rescue institution in Chicago and one of the first in the country outside of New York City.  By 1938, 12,000 babies had found a safe home at The Foundlings.  After 100 years, The Foundlings Home closed in 1971.

Dr. Mary Thompson (1829-1895) came to Chicago during the Civil War when the city had two hospitals:  one didn’t accept female patients and neither hospital allowed female surgeons to practice.  In 1865, she opened The Chicago Hospital for Women and Children at Paulina and Adams with Dr. Thompson Chicago’s first practicing female physician.  Her first Chicago patients were the children, wives, and widows of Union soldiers.  The hospital grew and moved several times until it opened at 140 North Ashland in 1927.  Today, most of the hospital has been demolished but the limestone engraved lettering of Dr. Thompson remains.

In 1884, Dr. John B. Murphy, a surgeon at Cook County Hospital, was summoned to the C. A. Plamondon home on Throop Street to care for their young daughter Jeannette who was suffering from Typhoid fever.  A year later, Dr. Murphy married the 18-year-old woman and they lived at 44 Throop until 1900.  Dr. Murphy operated through the night on policemen who had been injured by bomb fragments during the Haymarket Affair.  The doctor went on to help educate the public about the dangers of appendicitis and is credited with developing “the Murphy button” for intestinal disorders.

The West Loop also had a flare for the dramatic arts! There were several Chicagoans on the Near West Side that directed dance troupes on Broadway, wrote groundbreaking books, and penned famous songs.   Florenz Ziegfeld (1867-1932) grew up across from today’s Whitney Young High School on West Adams Street.  As a typical teenager, Flo visited the Academy of Music, a 1900 music venue on Halsted Street between Madison and Monroe.  There he saw the very popular Buffalo Bill Wild West Show.  Buffalo Bill challenged audience members to show their skills in marksmanship.  Flo quickly took the challenge and hit a bull’s-eye and became part of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West traveling show.  His career was off and running.  Flo was a producer for The 1893 World Columbian Exposition Fair.  The first wife of Mr. Ziegfeld suggested he develop a troupe like the Folies Bergères of Paris.  The Ziegfeld Follies debuted in New York City in 1907. 

Regarding literary talents who lived and worked in the West Loop, Theodore Dreiser (1871-1945), author and journalist, lived on The Near West Side several times around Throop and Madison Streets.  He was fascinated by the various ethnic groups, streetwalkers, street markets of Chicago, and the stark economic and social differences which he would later write about. At 29 years old, he wrote his first novel, Sister Carrie that is partially set in Chicago near Union Park.  Mr. Dreiser covered the 1892 Democratic Convention in Chicago for The Chicago Daily Globe, and The 1893 Columbian Exposition for The St. Louis Republic.  He went on to be a magazine editor and wrote An American Tragedy in 1925 which was adapted into a movie in 1931.

The Grammy award-winning song “For Once in My Life” that was so famously performed by Stevie Wonder was co-written by Orlando Murden (1925-1994) and Ron Miller. Mr. Murden lived at Ada and Madison Streets on The Near West Side of Chicago.  He was a gifted composer, pianist, singer, bandleader, and harpist.  Jack Cecchini, friend, said “when Orlando sat down at a piano in a club, the whole world listened.  The range of his repertoire was amazing.  His rhythm and sense of time were phenomenal.”  Mr. Cecchini hopes that Murden’s music will gain belated recognition and will eventually be housed in The DuSable Museum of African American history for all to enjoy.   

Fast forward, today many West Loopers give their time and energy to make The West Loop a wonderful place to live! All the folks at The 9 11 Emergency Communications Center on West Madison Street keep us safe in Chicago, firemen run into blazing buildings, May Toy advocates for Skinner Park, and The Mary Bartelme Park Committee keeps our Mary Bartelme Park a treasure.  The West Loop Association is dedicated to enhance the well-being of its member businesses, institutions, and organizations.  Small businesses open their doors every day so we can “Shop Local.” George Lemperis, at The Palace Grill, has kept “ham on the bone” sandwiches on the menu for more than 80 years and Hugo, his longtime manager and chef  has been part of the team for 30 years.  The award-winning restaurants put our West Loop neighborhood on the map. Dedicated volunteers keep our parks clean. Teachers at our award-winning schools inspire kids every day! The interesting stories of the West Loop from yesterday and today go on and on…

To learn more about other Chicagoans that lived on The Near West Side of Chicago, read Chicago’s West Loop, Then and Now (people, businesses, buildings), and to find out more about Fairbanks' upcoming book events, please visit www.conniefairbanks.com.

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